Saturday, March 4, 2017

What a lovely world

Hello friends!

I write you with a full and thankful heart for all that Kris and I have had the privilege to experience on our trip thus far. We have received so much from everyone we have met. I think this post may be remniscent of the last, as I share about the beautiful human beings we have come to know. Last time I wrote we were in the mountains in La Sierra Sur of Oaxaca, staying with the young groovy family. The rest of our time there was lovely. We got to celebrate the eldest child's birthday with a special meal of mole de guajolote (turkey) straight from the farm. They told us that the turkey was a gift to the child the year before for his birthday, so this year they killed it and ate it. Everyone was very excited. It was sweet.

From there we headed back to Oaxaca City and goofed off a while, eating so much delicious food, and going out dancing... I believe. Wait though, this is where it gets good. We found we had an extra week before there was space for us at the farm, so Kris suggested we go visit these small towns to the north of the city. We went. It was wonderful. We arrived at the first town by taxi, called Cuajimoloyas, and the first thing I noticed- silence. It was such a pleasant change from the loud city. We spent the afternoon walking a trail that wove through public and private lands, asking for directions along the way, and goodness, it was a good challenge, and gorgeous. We were in the forest! The people of the town were so genuinely kind. I was really humbled. After an excellent dinner in one of the town's tiny restaurants, we went to bed (so early) and thoroughly enjoyed the beds... and the shelter in the cold night. The following day we hiked to the next town over with a lovely woman who was our guide through the forest. She, again, was so kind. She volunteers to take people on tours. This brings me to the interesting format of these towns.

In these towns, from what I've been able to understand, they govern themselves by selecting citizens to serve the town for a year or two in various positions. In these specific towns, eco-turism is big, so there are also various positions serving tourists. I believe you start to serve the town when you turn 18. When you are called, you go. After that, you can volunteer if you want. In this town, people don't have much as far as money or cars, etc, but through the way the town is set up, it seems that most people get land to raise animals or plants, and through this they supply most of their needs. They are self-sustaining.

Oh my goodness. I almost forgot. We had a really interesting conversation with a man from one of these towns in the taxi ride. He told us about how the climate has been changing-- it used to rain in these mountains, regularly, predictably, and well. This provided for healthy crops, good harvests. He said that now it hardly rains, and when it does the rain is harsh and damages the plants. People aren't planting as much or practicing agriculture as much as they did before because of the unpredictable weather-- a crop can be destroyed in drought or in these harsh rains, and then all the investment is lost. He told us about how before plastic arrived to these towns they would use the fibers of a kind of cactus plant to weave baskets, bags, everything. Then came plastic bags, plastic everything, commercial everything, and the people started to use all of these new products. Now there is just so much trash generated. It was a really good talk. It was crazy.

Kris and I had just been talking about all these things that morning, and then he just confirmed it all. These are the stories we've heard for so long; that our consumerism, waste, and greed, our standard of living that contaminates and uses more than our fair share of resources (in the West) and also the history of taking and exploitation and oppression by the US (and others colonizers) in Latin America (and to be fair, in other places) really affects the poorest, the most humble, the most wise people. It really has made these places poor and kept them poor. It is just crazy. It is a harsh reality.

We feel so strongly our privilege being travelers in Oaxaca. It is so apparent, we just traipsing through the city, laughing, buying snacks, planning trips... worried about nothing, and then all around these people just doing their daily grind, selling the snacks in the street, sweeping with homemade brooms, or working their 12-hr shift to make the equivalent of $4USD in a day. It is hard to know what to do about these feelings, about, again, this reality. We recognize the privilege we have, even as US citizens, to be able to take this long trip to engage our curiosities about the world, to broaden our horizons, to taste the flavors of these far-off places. The thing is, it isn't fair. It just isn't. It isn't fair that I am born well-off, taken care of, and with plentiful opportunity to have a comfortable, even indulgent life, and that someone born in Oaxaca, even if they study and obtain a degree in psychology or engineering, are likely going to be struggling, and that taking even a short trip requires months or even years of saving. Even when they visit places in their own country, they may be discriminated against because of where they come from because the white person (with more money) is worth more attention.

These are things that have been rolling around in my head. It is good.

Where was I? I should try to be brief; there is much to share. We met other travelers in the next town, we ate more good food (that is really just a given), and we stayed there two nights. We got to enter into a temazcal to sweat... and drink this mint herbal mix tea... which felt so good in the cold mountains, and especially because I got sick those days... And we drank a fermented agave drink, tepache. It was strong. Like wine. Ha. Delicious.

And we walked on, to the next town, and goodness, the hikes were all just gorgeous. Imagine, in the mountains, pure, wild nature. On this last hike we met 2 friends, a young woman from England and a young man originally from the US but who had been living in New Zealand for a few years. They were really good company. We had a great time chatting on the trail, getting to know each of them, hearing of their experiences and hopes and dreams... Ha, always. And later we danced a little swing and Miss England let me teach her some bachata and merengue. And later we played card games until we went to bed. It was just pure fun. !Bellas seres humanos en todos lados! 

It was beautiful to visit the towns. We returned to Oaxaca, and then we got to go to the next farm! In Rojas de Cuahtemoc, a small livestock desert town, we arrived and while walking with our backpacks, were greeted warmly by The Icecream Man, who told us how to proceed to arrive to the farm. I think it is where most of the backpackers who come to Rojas are headed. Oh, man. This farm was out of control. So well organized, with a solid group of international volunteers. They invited us in, we set up our tents, and then we jumped into the game, sawing carrizo, a plant similar to bamboo, to help construct a bench.


We were so impressed with this place. We got to work on natural building projects (the carrizo, and an adobe-like plaster on a building). Like at Rancho Akna (the first farm) we mixed the plaster with our feet, and slapped and smoothed it on the wall with our hands. This mix was filtered sand, dirt, and baba de nopal, which helps it to all stick together. Pretty messy, very fun. I also got to help take measurements to create a map of the property with a lovely woman who is an architect. I also helped Kris build a compost system for the human waste generated on the property. That was rad. Kris worked so hard and finished it within that two weeks that we were there. Wild. And now that farm has a sustainable way to take care of their waste and turn it into a resource that they can use to fertilize their plants. Humanure. If you haven't looked into it, I really suggest you do. It is so important! Talk about Systems Unseen*.

Now I'm going to go on about that because it is fascinating. Basically, with the current systems we have, toilets, we flush waste away with (at least in the US) CLEAN DRINKING WATER, a precious limited resource. Then it gets sent to a Waste Treatment Plant where they use all sorts of chemicals to filter and process it to make it into something less toxic**, then eventually it is sent out to river or sea.... it can be done so much better. If we can take responsibility for our waste, we can implement systems that (like what Kris just built), cleanly convert that waste into a resource, saving water, saving the energy used in those Treatment Plants, and saving the rivers and oceans from further contamination. It is just wild.

This farm project has the ultimate goal of being a learning center for the community and outsiders, to show permaculture systems (recycling water, composting toilets, organic and sustainable cultivation of crops, specifically amaranth, which is native to Mexico and high in nutrients). It is funded by an association called Puente, that seeks to mitigate poverty and malnutrition.

Surely I will remember fondly the meals we shared at this farm. They have it worked out so that we´re on a rotation for house chores duty. When it is your day, you get up a little early and prepare breakfast for everyone (generally some delux oatmeal with an agua fresca or cafe or chocolate). Then as everyone goes to their projects, you get to clean up, wash dishes, and start preparing lunch. They have solar ovens, which are basically mirrors reflecting the sun´s energy onto a bowl with a glass lid. It is slow, but it works. Water simmers, bread bakes... with the pure energy of the sun. My first day as Kitchen Volunteer was a little rough because I didn´t know the ropes... but the second day (which happened to be our last day at the farm) I had a great time. I made vegan oatmeal banana pancakes for breakfast, and then an Italian plate for lunch, complete with pasta and slow roasted tomato sauce, steamed veggies, a salad (prepared by our coin Italian) and bread... and agua de jamaica... It was so fun, jamming out to my music, cooking the best I know how to nourish these new friends.

And that was the best part. Everyone who cooked took their role seriously, and prepared meals with great love and great seasoning. We ate curries, falafel, soups, breads-- from Spanish, Italian, French, US, and Mexican chefs. Everything was just so good. And everyone was always very grateful. It is simple, but just really nice.

Goodness. So much goodness.

Maybe this is a good place to pause, leaving on a note of gratefulness, joy, community, and health. I still want to share of a wonderful visit to Santa Catarina de Noltepec, a remote town where a good old friend is living, in Oaxaca, and then some closing thoughts on our time in Mexico. We are currently in Ecuador. Tomorrow we head to our first farm here. We are very excited.

Thank you, for your support, for your love, for the wisdom you have shared with me. I think of many of you often, and reflect on words you've shared. Much love to you!


*Kris's term. Get ready for a podcast with the same title.
**Even after excessive processing in the WWT Plants, particulates from prescription medications, antibiotics, etc, remain in the water (because our body doesn't absorb them, they just pass through in urine). These then get aborbed by algae, consumed  by fish and other wildlife, hurting their bodies and in turn hurting ours if we consume the fish. Also, some of it gets cycled through again to our "clean" water, and we drink it. Yikes.

5 comments:

  1. Amazing Amiga! Gracias gracias por compartir tanta belleza y conciencia. It was a great morning read, your voice was in my head...Lol. All this reflection coincided with a dream I had of you, reflecting about life near the ocean waters. Un abrazo y cuídense mucho. Te quiero y sigue disfrutando.
    Besos,

    V

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    1. Vicky, que linda, gracias por compartir! Que chévere que coincide con esa reflexión, con ese sueño. I'm looking forward to seeing you again. Abrazos y calor! TQM <3 gracias por leer!

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  2. Que lindo tu viaje Jamie!!! He leído todos los posts ��. Sigue conociendo y conociéndote mucho, dale un gran abrazo a Kris y espero verlas x Lima. Un beso y un abrazo.
    César

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    1. Jaja todos?? :) Gracias, Cesar. Siempre el viaje-- una gran aventura :) cuídate, César! Le avisaremos cuando llegamos x allí.

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  3. Claro...Leí hasta los más antiguos jajajjajajajjaja...Me pegué con el blog pues....;)

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